Corks in Baltimore is my new favorite restaurant in the world. Because of this: 
(warning to vegetarians: explicit carnivorous content follows.)
THE FOIE GRAS.
I almost didn’t order it. Having a plan as I did for the charcuterie plate (more later), then the tomato soup with fresh cut potato chips and a dip so wonderfully complex it needed to be eaten with something more mundane than home cut chips. (I am easily spoiled, so will have to watch the chip addiction. Madison loved them and requests that I get more today…)
the waiter (now know to be named Mark) said they call it “meat butter”
Seems I’m a bit reticent to talk about it, it was so wonderful.
First, know that this plate toppled L’Ami Louis into second place on my “Favorite Restaurant in the World” list. Really. Pretty to look at, the seared foie gras is plated with cornichons, mustard made with grape must (it’s nearly black) and a vinegar reduction. So tender, flavorful, incredibly rich; but fresher and livelier than I’ve had before. Tender, moist. It went down like liquid gold (assuming you like gold). The mustard, vinegar and cornichons are perfect foils.
My former measurement for a superlative dish was the eye roll: if the taste makes your eyes roll back into your head, that’s good. I have experienced it only a few times: the first of spring asparagus during my premiere visit to L’Ami Louis. The oyster brie soup at the now-closed Uglesich’s in New Orleans. This foie gras brought tears to my eyes. The new standard:
1. Tears
2. eye roll
3. general wow-ness
CREME BRULEE
Creme Brulee is one of those things by which I judge a restaurant (like whether or not a water glass is kept full (it was)). It’s rarely done badly. Corks’ edition was outstanding in the field for clarity, taste and memory retrieval.
A clarity of creme
childhood. vanilla pudding I may have never had but now remember
the brulee
superb
superlative
joeux
rich
dark
(perfect – related to the Maderia (see below))
(must really try to contact the long lost french relatives in Quebec)
the brulee II:
girl scout burnt marshmallows
the earth on a stick burning
you can choose
to blow it out
or let it burn
whatever you prefer
creme.
+
brulee.
__________
invoking happy memories that you may or may not have ever had.
CARMELIZATION
foie gras
or creme brulee.
carmelization
is the center
of the universe
KATAS Tempeanillo Rose Rueda Spain 2008
delightful. a confirmed “glass and one sip of a second” woman goes through 2 glasses. and only refrains from the third because I want to try a dessert port.
A bit sweet under the dry. more sweet than expected, great for summer.
MADERIA
raisins gone sensual
to marakesh with the 5-7
beau
joueux
nose seulement
vraiment
secret grand et sensuel
english mystery novel (like the best Sayers – Lord Peter)
and Marakesh – pleasure palace (as interpreted by an englishman)
perfectly and completely raisin
with an extensive continental experience
perfectly expressed and more
joyeux
the expression of the essense
layers
levels
lived
clear notes of fig. on the back of the tongue, mushroom. incredibly clear notes.
(grape – aged and concentrated into raisin
while thinking of a date
complex
oriental sensual and full of flavor
crunch
seed sweet tobacco w/o smoke
tooth
tip head back for clear inference of mushroom.
(Mark also recommends Jiminez dessert sherry – blended)
MUST BUY AN APT OR ROW HOUSE IN BMORE!!!
www.corksrestaurant.com
Corks. 1026 South Charles Street. Baltimore. 410-752-3810.
thanks Mark, Brooks and all. I’ll be back soon
